Well hello, winter. What happened to fall? Texas did not get one. It went from t-shirt weather to freezing overnight. Not just frost but ice freezing. Sad ice freezing that hit my tropical plants (my poor dear frangipane) before I had time to rescue.
And I can’t believe the holidays are here already. Time feels especially blurry because I seemed to have missed November entirely. Between the death of our dog, which also happened the same night the freeze storm came in, and the sudden cold, my immune system got shot to bits. I spent the better part of last week indoors, shlepping around in my bathrobe, barely making appearances in public, and subsisting on a diet of chicken soup and Nyquil. It was Icky. But I’m finally feeling good enough to take some photos of my latest projects. It’s so nice to have color back in my cheeks!
So while I was stuck in my bathrobe, I got itchy to take on some challenge I wouldn’t have time to work on otherwise. I’d already made this top and had begun to fit a jacket, but on a whim decided I must have some red pants. I felt inspired to dig out Colette Pattern’s Clover, that pattern that has gained somewhat of a reputation of being the Mount Everest of pants-fitting.
And I think I got pretty darn close to what I wanted. Firstly, I have really been wanting more streamlined and simple pieces in my wardrobe, including a lot more black. I’ve been tempted to wear black almost every day since October. Or red, another winter color I adore. I love pulling out the red-red lipstick in winter.
I almost made the pants in black because I happen to have some great black twill trouser fabric, but I thought that might’ve been overkill or at the very least hard to photograph. So I dug through my stash and was happy to find some long-forgotten red stretch poplin with the right weight and stretch.
Both of these projects–actually most of my projects as of late–have become an excuse to work out more complex sewing matters. I like to keep my mind engaged, so the last few months I’ve been getting into deeper study of fitting concepts and how they apply to human anatomy. I think this is going to be the year I pad out a dress form…
The top is based on Kristin’s Style Arc dress, which I have made a few times before. I went on a bit of a muslin-fest for this one–not for style, but to try out different ways of removing excess back length. I think that my problems in the back fit of garments have mostly to do with the slope of my shoulders and the neckline. Maybe a little bit of swayback in there, but I have tried every swayback alteration known to mankind and they do not solve the whole problem. So I’m keeping at it. Aside from all that I cut it down to a hip length, added a semi-exposed zipper to the back, et voila–simple little boxy top that goes with everything.
Then there are the Clovers. I have a love/hate relationship with any pants with a slim taper all the way to the ankle. I don’t think like wearing them with flats because I feel like a big ice cream cone, so I fitted them around heels. Let me make a little wardrobe change…
I couldn’t decide which shoes I liked best. My favorites are the shazaam shoes with a bit of ankle flash, but it’s just too cold for them now.
With a style like cigarette-y pants, there can be a wide interpretation of how they should fit–skinny or just skimming the body? And it’s open to either, since this pattern is drafted with zero ease. (I measured.) They do need be taken in further if one wanted skinny. For me, the style of fit depends on the fabric, particularly the drape. Cotton stretch fabric has no drape, and if it’s not super skinny it can get “crunchy-looking” so quickly–they end up looking like chinos with skinny pants delusions. I made these with about 12% negative ease but they still got a big saggy. Pretty typical for cotton or stretch denim, I guess.
In addition to fit alterations, I made several style changes to the pattern, like making the waistband a bit wider which I think looks better on me, and adding welts to the front for some detail to break things up.
Fitting these was an entirely strange ball of wax. I honestly don’t think I could have tackled this pattern unless I had the experience of fitting my jeans. Between that and viewing a lot of finished Clovers online, I got a fairly good idea of what to tackle. There was a consistency to the fitting problems which pointed to some issues with the back shaping and length, which also had an incidental effect on the front. I feel a post coming on about fitting stretch pants and differences in trouser pattern shapes. Would you like to hear some pant-shaping theory?
Phew, that was a long post. That’s what happens when I’ve been in a sick cave for two weeks. I burst with thoughts!
Details
Top: Style Arc Kristin as a base
Pants: Colette Clover
Fur coat (at top): BurdaStyle, written about here
Fabric: Cotton stretch poplin and rayon doubleknit from stash
Zipper: Pacific Trimming
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These look great, Amy! ‘Specially cuz they’re red. And you’re not in any danger of ice cream cones!!
Well done! I’m up for pants theory.
Oooh, fabulous red Clovers Amy! I’ve been yearning to make red pants lately, so from me it’s an enthusiastic yes to some pant-shaping theory :D.
These look fantastic! It’s nice to wear a little color in winter, isn’t it? Beautiful work!
Love the pants!!! I adore wearing black all year, and I’ve given up caring whether people think it boring, personally – it suits me, and is always effortlessly chic… I gravitate towards red in fall/winter as well, and one can never find a nice pair of red pants, so the ideal solution is to, well, MAKE them! 🙂 I have the Clover pattern but haven’t tackled them yet – a little nervous about trying to tackle the fitting demons on a slim fit like that. I love the welts, btw, they’re a very nice touch 🙂
Thank goodness you’re still here Amy, I checked your Blog y’day and it was not available! I was saddened but am now relived to find you’re back.
The pants are awesome,a nice shade of red. I’d really appreciate you sharing your ‘pants theory’. They scare me, I don’t even know how I’d start to them.
These are both gorgeous! I love it when your handmade clothes posts pop up in my feed. Always blown away by some detail or the other; this time its that amazing fit on those clovers, AND the welts, and the top. Okay wait just the whole get up and especially the shoes. No-one would guess these are hand-made!
These both look great! The fit of the Clovers is super impressive, and I love the color. I’m also really digging the semi-exposed zipper on the top–I’ve been wanting to incorporate one of those into a project at some point.
I would be in favor of the pants fitting post. I’ve been fighting with figuring out where various fit issues are coming from, particularly in regards to the front crotch fitting and drafting the back rise for a bubble butt. Also, Maddie just featured a guest tutorial on making your own dress form if you’re thinking about doing that: http://www.madalynne.com/diy-dress-form
Love your new pants and the coat. May I also say I am smitten by your shoe collection. Where do those multicolour summer booties come from?
I could definitely be caught out in the garden on some of our coldest nights, giving the citrus plants a “deep watering” to help stave off the freeze! For the most part, they seem to have weathered it okay.
I’ve also had the urge to wear nothing but black since October, and I think I’m going to follow my instinct! Your streamlined look here is exactly what’s inspiring me lately. I love the style arc top with the exposed zipper, and your Clovers look really great! I love a bright red pant. Would be super intrigued to read more about pants-shaping theory! I love making pants, and wearing pants, so any way that I can improve fit is a bonus!
And glad to hear you’re feeling better. Being sick is no fun at all. At least you were able to turn it into a productive convalescence!
Oh! P.S! You have the BEST shoe collection. I’m seriously drooling over both of these booties (and I agree, those red beauties are truly something special… sigh…those proportions…) – but honestly, your footwear in all your posts is always eye-candy for me!
This outfit is so chic and great for the holidays! You have a talent for exposed zippers, and pants making.
That top seriously will go with everything. I would love to hear your theories on pants fitting, it is always a real challenge to find any pants that fit me will, let
alone a pattern that does.
So glad to hear that you are feeling finally better.
Your new trousers and top look great. Last year I promised myself to introduce some red in my winter palette, but it hasn´t happened yet. So I´m coveting your red trousers so much!!
“they end up looking like chinos with skinny pants delusions” I am trying so hard to perfect a slim trouser pattern and seriously, every make is this exactly. It’s not a good look. Your pants, however, look fantastic! The fit just couldn’t be better!
love the whole outfit! i steered clear of the clovers because of the crazy fit problems ppl had. i’d love to hear what you have to say about the fit!
I got sick in early October and boy, did it knock my on my butt. Those last couple of days where I was about 75% better, instead of moping around until I got to 100%, I cranked out some projects that I had been meaning to finish but never had time.
I love this whole ensemble and yes, I would love a post about pant fitting!
I really like these with the red booties and ankle. Bravo on getting the fit you were looking for. And, yes to any pant lessons you might have up your sleeve. I love your little lessons!