Happy October y’all! My favorite month of the year. Unfortunately, unlike the pumpkin patch, apple-dunking hayride-loving October I grew up with, Austin is still experiencing some seriously hot summer weather. So I have some days left to squeeze in my new tank dress and this strapless set.
And if you followed along with my progress, it must have seemed like this took all summer to make. It did, with a lot of breaks in between. I laid it aside a few times to make about 12 other lingerie sets. I never thought I’d hear myself say this, but I’m going to take a small break from making lingerie. Maybe a week, ha. I just love this set and am so glad I put the time getting the fit just so. I feel a little bit like a 40s starlet when I’m wearing it!
You all asked some great questions about making this kind of bra and one of them was: is a 3-piece cup better for strapless bras?
In my experience, yes. A three-piece is the most common type of cup in RTW strapless bras and probably for a good reason. A single horizontal or vertical seam is more difficult to contour closely at the neckline especially as the cup gets higher over the breast as a strapless bra does. Think of cup seams like darts. The more seams you have the more “dart” possibilities. The more darts, the more a pattern can fit smoothly around a very curved area without distortion. (This is a basic principle in patternmaking, not just for bra cups.)
When I made my muslins I had to try on my cups in foam pin out little darts along the upper piece to get a smooth, non-gaping neckline shape. Then I took these adjustments back to my pattern.
So let’s talk about the bra!
There are a lot of different fabrics going on here but thankfully I had most of them in my stash, like the lace, lining, and powernet. I listed my sources at the bottom in case you are curious.
As per my usual bra-making routine, I dyed many parts to match. Thankfully, I lucked out and was able to find some wonderful 5/8” plush elastic that matched perfectly! (I did did a total nerdy happy dance when I opened the packages and saw the color.) And it is a nice, firm elastic which is great for a strapless band. I used the same elastic on top and bottom of the band, which ended up being a good call for support but it also feels super comfortable.
Unfortunately the very day I finished this my cups got a bit crushed when one of my kitties decided it made a good afternoon nap cushion. I usually have to hide all my sewing projects from them in a drawer somewhere but sometimes I just forget…
The matching knickers were a fun addition. They are slightly higher waisted with a lace inset. I have about 20 underwear styles at this point I’ve been playing with. Some have been winners and others a bit meh, but this one is definitely a winner for a future Cloth Habit pattern!
Overall, I’m supremely happy with how this all turned out!
Details:
Bra & knicker patterns: self drafted
Cup & knicker lycra: Girl Charlee
Cup foam and sheer lining: Bra-makers Supply
Powernet: Fabric Depot Co.
Galloon lace: LaceAndTrims
Bra & knicker elastic: Lace Heaven
Wires & other notions: from my collection
Lace, lining and powernet were all dyed to match with Dharma Acid Dye
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Omg this is so lovely! I been waiting all summer for you to post this! I really want to try making strapless but I think I will wait for your pattern!
Aww thanks girl. Sorry it took me forever, haha.
This set is seriously dreamy! I’ve never had a strapless bra that fit me correctly… I may have to break down and sew one!
Thanks! It was definitely some work but after fitting this I’m pretty sure I’ll never buy one again!
I’m not really a bra person (I wear them but I don’t really care about them) but this is just beautiful! I love the fabric and lace colors together.
Thanks! I love this kind of color a lot.
I have been having a hard time finding the sheer seam tapes to reinforce/secure the joins- may I ask where you source them? Or do you cut them yourself?
BTW this is a GORGEOUS set 🙂 after I perfect my strapped bra pattern, I think I’m going to start engineering a strapless longline for myself!
Never mind…. I found the answer in an earlier post *hanging head in shame* lol
No problem, a lot of people have asked me about making the tape. I sort of skimmed over it in my foam cup tutorial but perhaps it is worthy of its own post.
Beautiful pieces!
Droooooool.
So incredibly lovely. Very professional looking too. You should feel like a starlet wearing it, Amy. Really, so very lovely.
Very Nice Very Nice, I love the entire set, can’t wait to see those pattern have planned, hopefully we will be fortunate to purchase and start making our own creations!!!!
Amy, you have officially become a professional, event if this wasn’t for a client. If I could call you doctor, I would! This is beautiful and I’m blown away.
I see that the underwrite and side seam casing is not the norm – what fabric did you use?
Also, because an under wire bra needs a lot of support, did the casing hold up?
Hi Maddie, I made silk channeling and used it for both. It does hold up–no tearing, etc. I also used this for my bra in the bra-making sew-along (you can me sewing it on in the 4th picture here) and I still wear it! I have been working up a simple tutorial about making channeling and ways to stabilize it.
Wow, this is absolutely beautiful- inside and out. You nailed every single detail! I’m looking forward to seeing what other pattern ideas you have floating around!
Thanks Emily!
This is absolutely amazing and beautiful. I’ve never, ever had a strapless that fits. 🙁 I’m getting into making my own lingerie, and this is one of my goals! It’s absolutely beautiful!
I hadn’t either, so I decided it was finally time to conquer it!
It is stunning! That is truly one of the most beautiful strapless bras I have seen!
You never fail to impress! What beautiful work and I love the way you placed the lace in the design.
This set is jaw droopingly lovely! Such a stunning soft pink, professionally finished and I love the cut of the knickers especially. O how I wish that I’ll be able to sew like that one day!
Wow Amy! This is truly breathtaking! I’m blown away both by the beauty of this set, and the engineering! What an accomplishment! And what a wonderful, and practical addition to your lingerie wardrobe!
Thanks girl! And gosh you’re right, it is a good feeling to make something beautiful but also super practical.
Totally swoon-worthy. I adore a three piece cup – the lines are very flattering visually I find. And I love nude essentials that are taken to the next level with pretty pale pinks and a touch of lace! Just divine 🙂
I love this set! I really want to get my hands in lingerie making, but I’m still terrified! Your makes are always spot on!
Your bras make me want to be a better person. This is seriously HIGH BOOB ART!
And love the new blog layout! Left side bar-ists, UNITE!
Thanks, lady! And yeah, I totally just switched the sidebar because I was bored looking at it the other way around. I rearrange my living room more than I do my blog for the same reason so why not?
Gorgeous!
This looks gorgeous, and so professional. I would like to try making one, especially after realizing that a dress pattern I’ve been looking at for a while, I wouldn’t be able to wear because everything above the bustline is just lace. Are you going to put up a pattern for it? I would love to see it and give it a try.
Awesome tutorial! I can’t wait to try and sew one up myself 🙂
Thanks for linking to us! -GirlCharlee.com