After sewing a second test of the Sencha pattern, I’ve decided to pass. Even after going up two sizes, the issues in my original muslin are still present, only in larger proportions. Shoulders oddly tight, too much bunching around the armholes and an unreal amount of billowing below my chest that would take too much work to adjust.
There are some lovely Senchas out there, and I think it looks good on certain figures but has the potential to be sloppy-looking on others. I mean no offense by that; it’s not for everyone! I feel perfectly happy breaking up with a pattern; why wrangle it down to something it’s not?
So I went back out on a pattern hunt. Basically, what I am looking for is a slightly loose, 40s-style cap-sleeve-ish blouse pattern with tucks or multiple waist darts. It can be buttoned either front or back–that part is easy to change. There are a motherload of vintage or repro patterns with almost identical shaping as the Sencha–and a few neckline variations.
First up is my favorite from Decades of Style:
I love how older patterns include illustrations of the pattern pieces–you can get a better idea of the shapes and tune into subtle differences. For instance, this blouse has a curved petal-like sleeve opening. It has similar tucks as Sencha, and there’s a back shoulder dart. What say you about shoulder darts? There are a lot of those in vintage patterns, and I wonder how they help fit.
Another from Decades of Style, the Girl Friday Blouse:
Double-tucking on front and back, which I like, a front shoulder dart, and that gorgeous triple collar! I won’t need the collar for my project but it’d be fun to try this out some day.
A McCall’s pattern, almost identical in shaping, but adds a bust dart (which might help with fitting?):
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Another McCall’s, with lovely shoulder gathering and optional cut-on sleeves. I wonder how those fit:
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More ideas:
{Credit: McCall’s 7231, McCall’s 6749, Vogue 6749, Simplicity 4987}
Are you bloused out yet? I think I know which one I like best style-wise, but am more concerned with fit and hope one of these patterns might have better proportions for my body. Which one would you pick? I’m pretty new to sewing 40s patterns. Perhaps it’s time to pull out my old attempts at bodice blocks and draft my own. Either way, starting another blouse will have to wait for fall!
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That’s too bad that the Sencha didn’t work out. Good luck finding a replacement pattern. If you decide to draft your own, I’d be curious for a post on your process.
I love these patterns but hmmm, it’d be fun to draft my own! These are really simple shapes… perhaps a fall project 😉
Oh, how can one EVER be bloused out?! I love these patterns, especially the first two. The first one will be tricky to make so that the draped collar doesn’t look like an accident… You definitely need the right fabric for it. I’d love to see you make both of these patterns. Drafting your own is great, too, so you should just add it all to your list 😉 By the way, shoulder darts are pretty great especially for people with a slightly curvy upper back (ok, you can call it a hunch), or if you use material that doesn’t ease in easily… Have fun deciding!
I do like a vintage blouse – particularly a pussy bow – and I love all the old patterns you’ve found.
Hurrah, it’s Ms. That’s Not My Age! I have to figure out how to work a pussy bow properly… I have shied away in the past!
okay… I love all the patterns shown and want to make ALL of them right now! Are these available at most stores or must I find them in vintage shops/online? I have seen some retro patterns but none like these!
Hi Karen, these are vintage patterns I found on Etsy or eBay. Or a vintage pattern site. So no, not available at stores. But warning–looking for vintage patterns is totally addictive! The first two patterns are by Decades of Style, who reproduce vintage patterns and grade them into sizes. Check ’em out! (There are other pattern companies that print “repro” vintage patterns, like Eva Dress and Wearing History, off the top of my head.) There are some stores that carry Decades of Style, but they’re usually independent fabric/sewing stores.