Underwire Charts

Most of these charts are for regular length underwires, but many suppliers also sell other lengths and even specialty wires for different shapes. If you are interested in shorter wires for plunge or demi bras, see the bottom!


regular length

Also offers heavier quality regular length (for larger bust sizes, more info). Elingeria sells a wide variety of underwires of nice quality.


long and regular (both work with the Pin-up Girls and Elan patterns)


regular length (make sure to print the image at 100%)


Regular underwires are Style 20, Style 3, Style 17 (like 20 but runs in larger cup sizes)

A very wide range of underwires, mostly manufactured by Marks & Spencer. Great quality–almost the best I’ve found. You may want to look at their chart that compares the differences.


regular length


Sew Sassy (US), Booby Traps (AUS) and Merckwaerdigh (NL) do not publish underwire charts, as far as I know, but they all sell affordable regular length underwires.

Note that European & US/UK wires don’t always correspond one to one–it’s just a result of metric vs. imperial grading. The best way to find out how your wire shape/size translates from one manufacturer to another is by comparing a current-fitting underwire to a chart.


It’s always possible to clip and shape your own wires, but there are suppliers who sell shorter underwires suitable for plunge or lower balconette bras. Merckwaerdigh, Fabric Depot, Sew Sassy, Elingeria, Bra-makers Supply, and Sewing Chest UK all sell plunge wires in different lengths.


  1. CGCouture March 5, 2014 at 9:47 am #

    Now that elingeria isn’t around anymore, who do you suggest buying heavy gauge plunge wires from? I am full busted and would like to make my own plunge bras with narrow wires. Preferably a place with cheap shipping to the US?

    • Amy March 27, 2014 at 11:29 am #

      Ahh, I really need to update this page. As far as I know, there are only two online shops that offer narrow wires: Bra-makers Supply and Sewing Chest UK. The wires at Sewing Chest are heavy gauge and the strongest I have tried. I haven’t bought one of the Bra-makers “vertical wires”–the narrow ones–but the description suggests these are strong wires. Both of these shops also offer plunge wires, but many plunging wires are usually already narrow to begin with. The longer the tail is (at the side) the better support it will have for a larger cup. It’s also easy to just cut a narrow wire to the length you want. I don’t know if either shop offers cheap shipping, but I have found Sewing Chest to be very reasonable.

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