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	<title>Cloth Habit</title>
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	<link>http://clothhabit.com</link>
	<description>design. textures. sewing. fashion lore.</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 09 May 2012 03:57:01 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Fixing a Rise: Scallop Shorts Alteration</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/my-scallo-shorts-alteration/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/my-scallo-shorts-alteration/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 May 2012 20:25:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Pattern Fitting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern adjustments]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern runway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[scallop shorts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3238</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Howdy all, hope you&#8217;re having a beautiful week! We&#8217;ve been having mad storms here the last couple of days, and hallelujah, I&#8217;m so happy it&#8217;s raining. Our dogs, on the other hand, get nervy with all the thunder and lightning, and last night the youngest one bolted out of our gate, disappearing for SIX hours. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Howdy all, hope you&#8217;re having a beautiful week! We&#8217;ve been having mad storms here the last couple of days, and hallelujah, I&#8217;m so happy it&#8217;s raining. Our dogs, on the other hand, get nervy with all the thunder and lightning, and last night the youngest one bolted out of our gate, disappearing for SIX hours. Nothing like running around in Texas-sized tree-felling winds, yelling out &#8220;JAKEY WAKEY!&#8221; all over the neighborhood (Jakob, Jake, Jakey, Lanky Jakey&#8230;)! Turns out he found his way to our friend&#8217;s house several blocks away to huddle on the porch&#8211;smart border collie.</p>
<p>Anyways, a few readers asked for a visual of how I adjusted the front rise of <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/first-summer-shot-red-scallop-shorts/" title="First Summer Shot: Red Scallop Shorts">my scallop shorts</a> so I used a little rainy day to put together a pictorial. I know it&#8217;s hard to explain those things in words! I dug out my muslin to give you an idea of what was going on. I don&#8217;t know what was going on with this pose, my awkwardest attempt to keep the side seams closed while simultaneously keeping my arms out of the picture:</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/sweet-shorts-adjustment-300x400.jpg" alt="" title="sweet shorts muslin" width="300" height="400" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-3274" />Unfortunately, I adjusted my muslin before I could get pics, but this is what it looked like after doing a minor version of my adjustment&#8211;you can see the residual problem and it got even better after I did more adjusting.</p>
<p><strong>Problems:</strong></p>
<p>* Front rise is too long (hence the horizontal folds or droopiness).</p>
<p>* The curve or dip point of the front crotch seam stands too far away from the body. The radiating folds that extend from it feel restricting.<br />
<br style="clear:both;" /></p>
<p>It seemed the folding was due to both excess vertical length AND stress from being too tight around the hips. So here&#8217;s what I did:</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/shorts-front-650x487.png" alt="" title="sweet shorts adjustment, step 1" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3253" /></p>
<p>1. Drew in a hip line. There wasn&#8217;t one on my pattern, but I marked the spot on the center front of my muslin where the fold was, and used that as the hip line.</p>
<p>2. Then I extended the hipline about 1/2-5/8&#8243; from the original edge and marked a dot. I tested this by re-sewing the curve 1/4&#8243; into the seam allowance on my muslin, then re-drew it further out for the final version.</p>
<p>(If you want to get really precise, you can mark in the seam lines, and measure out from that line, then re-draw the seam allowances.) </p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/shorts-front2-650x487.png" alt="" title="sweet shorts adjustment, step 2" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3254" /></p>
<p>3. Then I re-drew the curve to meet that dot. The curve is now shallower, which also makes it shorter. You can also see that the front hip width has now gotten wider as a result. By re-drawing that curve, I gave myself about an inch total more hip room.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/shorts-front3-650x487.png" alt="" title="sweet short adjustment, step 3" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3255" /></p>
<p>4. I still had a bit of excess length in the front so I took out a wedge along the waistline, about 3/8&#8243;, starting at center front and tapering to nothing at the side seam.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m pretty happy with the way it all turned out! Has anyone else battled this kind of fit issue? I&#8217;d love to hear what has worked for you.</p>
<p>I hope that helps!</p>
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		<slash:comments>15</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>Going for a Test Drive: Sewaholic Cambie</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/sewaholic-cambie/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/sewaholic-cambie/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 May 2012 20:11:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Dresses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Summer Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sewaholic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sewaholic cambie]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[summer clothes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3210</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last month I was on a top-secret sewing mission. Not as rigorously top-secret as Sidney Bristow going undercover in a Balkan mob but I can dream. (In college I harbored fantasies of working for the CIA&#8230; I think I read Harriet the Spy too many times as a kid.) It was a fun mission nonetheless&#8211;I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last month I was on a top-secret sewing mission. Not as rigorously top-secret as Sidney Bristow going undercover in a Balkan mob but I can dream. (In college I harbored fantasies of working for the CIA&#8230; I think I read Harriet the Spy too many times as a kid.) It was a fun mission nonetheless&#8211;I had the pleasure of being a super spy tester for Sewaholic&#8217;s new pattern, <a href="http://sewaholic.net/introducing-the-next-pattern-the-cambie-dress/" target="_blank">the Cambie dress</a>.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cambie-side3-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="sewaholic cambie" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3212" /></p>
<p>So far I&#8217;ve only made the <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/10/lonsdale-in-mocha/" title="Lonsdale in Mocha">Lonsdale dress</a>, but it fit so well that I&#8217;ve really looked forward to trying other Sewaholic patterns, and I leapt at the chance to try this out.</p>
<p>My first impulse was to get all rocknroll on the dress, possibly contrast with all the femininity in some kind of animal print. Then Derek talked me into the hat. I HAD to design the dress around the hat.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cambie-and-the-hat2-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="Cambie dress and wide brim!" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3217" /></p>
<p>It was the week before Easter, and I was reminiscing over all the wonderful Easter Sunday church clothes my mother made for us girls. And dreaming of sipping mint juleps on a lovely Sunday afternoon in the garden.</p>
<p>My friend Stephanie and I decided to make a day of playing dress-up and took off to the East Side to catch some light and street shots. &#8220;Everyone dresses pretty funky over there, no one will really think we&#8217;re out of place,&#8221; she assured me.</p>
<p>Hehe, we were not exactly invisible. There is something about <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8PB1a1c9zA">girls in their summer clothes</a>&#8230; That and the fact that we were running around with all this camera equipment. I think our waiter at the restaurant afterward thought we were doing a magazine editorial, because he asked for credit. (Thank you, Paul!) A lovely elderly gentleman stopped us while we were sitting on a bench and exclaimed, &#8220;You young ladies are so pretty. Y&#8217;all remind me of summers in Mississippi. Those dresses&#8230; those dresses are like the ones the ladies and my mama all wore on Sunday afternoons. Takes me back. Brings a smile to my face.&#8221; (Insert a big fat Texas drawl in there, and you will hear the essence of Southern graciousness.)</p>
<p><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/textural/7150829149/in/photostream/">Just so Y&#8217;ALL can see what she was wearing.</a></p>
<p>It was so much fun to have a friend behind the camera because, gee, I&#8217;m actually laughing and dancing in most of them! She&#8217;d just seen a flamenco performance the night before so I was taking cues.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cambie-dance-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="cambie-dance" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3219" /></p>
<p>So, details, details. This dress is actually my second version! I made another out of a simple cotton jacquard so that I could give honest tester feedback by following the testing instructions, with one of the recommended fabrics. I put some <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/textural/tags/cambietestversion/">photos up on Flickr</a> so you can get an idea of what it looks like with the waistband and in a more structured fabric.</p>
<p><strong>Fabric:</strong> Absolutely delicious, couldn&#8217;t-stop-stalking cotton/silk voile with a delicate watercolor floral. So soft to the touch. Despite this being a sheer fabric, the voile was actually a dream to sew. It unravelled like a beast, though, so I needed to work fast to finish the seams. The lining is a nude silk habotai.</p>
<p>(I should probably mention that Tasia didn&#8217;t recommend sheer fabrics for the a-line version&#8230; but I didn&#8217;t mind a bit of pocket show-through. It sorta blends.)</p>
<p><strong>Pattern &#038; Fit Changes:</strong> My muslin fit almost perfectly, but I wanted to take out some of the width around the hips. On both front and back pieces I took redrew the side seams about 1/2&#8243; in from hem up to the hipline, and graded back out to 0 the waist. This took out 2 inches total from the hip and hem width. Some of you may notice that the pockets of the a-line skirt version and the waistband are almost identical to those on the Lonsdale. I almost took the waistband out of the Lonsdale and wanted to try doing so on this dress. This was actually a very simple modification. To keep the length and the waistline in the right spot, I lengthened both the bodice and skirt waistline by 1/2&#8243;, re-shaped the darts, and walked the pieces together to be sure the waist seams matched.</p>
<p>Anyone thinking of making this? I&#8217;m convinced this pattern will make a lot of happy dresses and makers, especially for those of you who like a bit of frou. I&#8217;m pretty happy because I think I&#8217;ve just found myself a good starting block, tnt, what have you&#8230; I&#8217;m already dreaming of a strapless version with a few bodice changes&#8230;.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/cambie-front-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="cambie-front" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3225" /></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>The Mariner&#8217;s Suit</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/the-mariners-suit/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/05/the-mariners-suit/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 May 2012 19:18:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Patternmaking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3188</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;m such a copycat. Grease was my first big person&#8217;s movie (not, you know,]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m such a copycat.</p>
<p>Grease was my first big person&#8217;s movie (not, you know, <a href=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubby_the_Tuba_(1975_film)">Tubby the Tuba</a>). So of course I really wanted an Olivia bodysuit, just like  <a href="http://daughterfish.com/?p=1543">Christine&#8217;s</a>. Then I wanted a nautical chevron-y one, <a href="http://daughterfish.com/?p=1505">just like hers</a>, to go with my new red shorts. I have an insane amount of blue and white striped modal jersey that was perfect for this (when you see good stripes, you gotta go for them, right?). And of course I wanted to try out sewing in bra cups, <a href="http://daughterfish.com/?p=3228">just like she did</a>.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/stripey-bodysuit-hanging-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="stripey-bodysuit-hanging" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3193" /></p>
<p>So you saw the bodysuit in action yesterday, and here&#8217;s the scoop. It&#8217;s super easy and fun to draft your own, thanks to her awesome tutorial. All you need is your favorite pair of undies, a ruler and some paper.</p>
<p>She also has a good tip on how to cut matching chevron stripes. Y&#8217;all have probably learned this the hard way, but sometimes a serger wants to push the top layer when you first start a seam, and that causes all sorts of mismatchiness even after super-careful cutting. So sometimes, if I&#8217;m really feeling perfectionist, I&#8217;ll baste the seam first with the sewing machine, than serge. That&#8217;s what I did for the center front. Other times, I will pin about an inch down from the beginning of the seam and then push the top layer upwards a bit so that by the time it goes past the knife, the two layers are even. This takes a bit of experimenting to get right but I&#8217;ve got the hang of it on my machine.</p>
<p>On the geeky pattern side of things, I&#8217;ve been meaning to draft my own bathing suit for awhile, and perhaps use it for other tight-fitting knit tops. Occasionally, I stalk the Pattern School website, which has all kinds of stretch patterns one can draft, including a <a href="http://www.patternschool.com/?page_id=164">basic one-piece block</a>. I spent an hour or so drafting this from my measurements, and two bodysuits are pretty darn close, except for the neckline. </p>
<p>For the sewn-in bra, I made a lining from the same fabric and stitched in foam cups just like the tutorial.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/stripey-bodysuit-inside-650x433.jpg" alt="" title="stripey-bodysuit-inside" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3194" /></p>
<p>It might have worked better if I stitched the cups to the inside rather than the outside (in the wrong light, they definitely show through!). And next time I will probably cut the lining from a beefier knit, perhaps a cotton/lycra, or some kind of supportive stretch mesh&#8230;. experiment, experiment, experiment! My jersey is very light and flimsy and definitely not support material, but at least it&#8217;s holding the cups in the generally correct location! I&#8217;ll be experimenting a bit more with making these, but it was fun to just jump in with what I&#8217;ve got laying around.</p>
<p>I messed around with the bottom shape a bit and I made a separate gusset. A gusset can either be its own piece that is sewn in to both front and back, or it can be part of the front or back pieces. You can also use the gusset piece to cut out a lining (a light cotton knit is the best for this, but I just go with whatever jersey I have on hand).</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/stripey-bodysuit-gusset-650x433.jpg" alt="" title="stripey-bodysuit-gusset" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3192" /></p>
<p>The only thing missing from mine is some elastic for the leg openings. I really like plush-backed elastic. (And it&#8217;d also feel nicer than the waistband elastic that I used on the bra lining.) Some folks like fold-over elastic. I should probably stash some basic colors for my lingerie adventures!</p>
<p>Has anyone else made self-supporting tanks or t-shirts? I&#8217;d love to hear your tips! (Steph published a <a href="http://3hourspast.com/2011/12/02/how-to-sew-a-bra-into-a-casual-dress/">great tutorial for sewing in a bra for a woven pattern</a>. I&#8217;ve been meaning to try that one, too.)</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>First Summer Shot: Red Scallop Shorts</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/first-summer-shot-red-scallop-shorts/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/first-summer-shot-red-scallop-shorts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Apr 2012 19:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Summer Style]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern runway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[scallop shorts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shorts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3166</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[These shorts were really fun to make. Or at least I was having a lot of fun saying scallops, scallop. Isn&#8217;t it a cool word? The consonance, I guess. They were finished over a week ago, but I really, really wanted to wear them with this exact top&#8211;a body suit, actually&#8211;which is a straight-up knock-off [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>These shorts were really fun to make. Or at least I was having a lot of fun saying scallops, scallop. Isn&#8217;t it a cool word? The consonance, I guess.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/sweet-shorts-front-close-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="sweet-shorts-front-close" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3174" /></p>
<p>They were finished over a week ago, but I really, really wanted to wear them with this exact top&#8211;a body suit, actually&#8211;which is a straight-up <a href="http://daughterfish.com/?p=1505">knock-off of Daughter Fish&#8217;s</a>. And that turned into an adventure of drafting not one but two different bodysuits. (More on that later!)</p>
<p>As I got to my unshaded location, the sun went behind clouds and the chiggers came out. Ouch, ooh, ouch, they <em>sting</em>. Ahhh, signs of summer in Texas!</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/sweet-shorts-front2-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="Sweet Shorts &amp; bodysuit" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3170" /></p>
<p>Now, I have to admit that styling shorts is not my forte. I have one pair of ikat shorts, kind of shorty shorts, that I love pairing with floaty blouses. There&#8217;s something about floaty and oversized with a smaller silhouette on bottom that looks right on me. I like these two together in a classic nautical way, but looking at the whole outfit in photos makes me feel a bit, um, revealed.</p>
<p>What do y&#8217;all think? A white button down with these might be cute. Or perhaps a drapey tank? Definitely not these sandals, if only because they are wearing out and I&#8217;m kind of bored with them. I&#8217;ve already got my eye on the &#8220;every day&#8221; sandals I want for this summer. They have just a smidge of a wedge heel, which I like. I usually only wear flat sandals with things that cover my legs, like maxis or long trousers.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/sweet-shorts-back-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="Sweet Shorts, back view!" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3177" /></p>
<p><strong>Pattern</strong>: Pattern Runway <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/71096808/scalloped-hem-shorts-pdf-pattern">Sweet Scallop Shorts</a>. Lots of cool little details, like separate front pieces with lots of top stitching, hem facings, welt pockets, yoke pockets with again, facings. This pattern is facing-happy! I really like them on hems&#8211;they make such a nice finish. It also has some good little &#8220;industry&#8221; techniques, such as how the invisible zipper is inserted, by machine, into the waistband facing. I&#8217;ve used this method several times before to line and face zippers, and it really turns out beautifully.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/shorts-inside-zip-650x433.jpg" alt="" title="faced invisible zip" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3178" /></p>
<p><em>(Note: I bought the pattern in September and it had incorrect instructions for the welt pockets, which gave me a bit of a head mash and I ended up sewing the underwelt backwards. If you make these make sure you have the updated instructions or see Sarah&#8217;s <a href="http://www.patternrunway.com/2011/09/how-to-sew-single-welt-pocket-with.html">tutorial</a>. She kindly pointed me to it when I thought I was going crazy!)</em></p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/sweet-shorts-welt2-650x433.jpg" alt="" title="Sweet shorts, welt" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3179" /></p>
<p><strong>Fabric</strong>: Red organic cotton twill from Mood, a nice twill with a soft hand. It was terribly off-grain, but after a lot of pulling on the bias, I was able to get it all straight. They have <a href="http://www.moodfabrics.com/index.php?file=categorylist&#038;navmaterials=13&#038;navshdesc=Twill_13&#038;navdept=2&#038;frompage=navigation">some other really pretty colors</a>, too. I only had a yard, and that was enough; I even had just the right amount left over to cut a 2nd front piece, after I serged a hole right through my original front while putting in the pockets. OOPS.</p>
<p><strong>Fitting notes</strong>: I&#8217;m exactly in between an XS and S in the pattern sizing so I went with the XS and made up a quick muslin. I mentioned before that this pattern has a lot of ease, but when I made the muslin, it didn&#8217;t seem so gargantuan and in fact looked slightly more fitted than <a href="http://img1.etsystatic.com/il_fullxfull.312110189.jpg">the model picture</a>. I still think going down a half size was a good idea.</p>
<p>I also knew that my fabric would work better if the shorts were more fitted. This twill is stiff (and non-stretch), kind of like a mid-weight denim. I tend to think that the stiffer and weightier a fabric, the more it is suited to a fitted style, which is why it&#8217;s so hard to predict the look and fit if you use a lighter or drapier fabric on the muslin. I&#8217;m glad I didn&#8217;t overfit the muslin, though, because after adding all the fusings, facings, etc, the shorts felt even tighter. Thankfully, the fabric relaxed a little as I wore them about!</p>
<p>On the muslin, I folded out just a smidge of a wedge out of the back for a swayback, and took in the waistband by a teensy bit. I might be able to stand even just a smidge more of a swayback adjustment. I made the biggest change to the center front seam/crotch curve. Commercial pants patterns often do this weird thing right where the center front seam forks. That looks funny now that I&#8217;m writing it, but tailors use the term &#8220;crotch fork&#8221;&#8211;why can&#8217;t I? It looks baggy in the front but feels tight from side to side. In most of my rtw pants, including jeans, that curve is much shallower (and usually the inseam is closer to the front). So I redrew the curve to be shallower, which also makes it shorter AND adds extra room for the hips. Does that make sense?</p>
<p>Happy summer sewing!</p>
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		<slash:comments>22</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Playing Catch-up and a Cote D&#8217;Azur Dress</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/playing-catch-up-and-a-cote-dazur-dress/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/playing-catch-up-and-a-cote-dazur-dress/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:32:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Dresses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mise en Place Project]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotpatterns]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hotpatterns Cote D'azur Dress]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Knits]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3138</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This was a dress that started its life as part of my Mise En Place project over the fall. Recently Amy of Sew Well asked me if I was back to working on one project at a time, or working on multiple garments at once. Coincidentally, I had just pulled out the remaining garments I [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This was a dress that started its life as part of my <a href="http://clothhabit.com/category/mise-en-place-project/">Mise En Place</a> project over the fall.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/cotedazur-front-closeup3-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="hp cote d&#039;azur dress" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3141" /></p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/cotedazur-side2-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="hp cote d&#039;azur dress side view" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3142" /></p>
<p>Recently <a href="http://sewwell.wordpress.com">Amy</a> of Sew Well asked me if I was back to working on one project at a time, or working on multiple garments at once. Coincidentally, I had just pulled out the remaining garments I cut for that project.  My serger went on the fritz toward the end of a <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/11/in-progress-the-good-times-dress/" title="In Progress: The Good Times Dress">silk jersey dress</a>, and I never got around to finishing the rest of the them so they&#8217;ve all been on my to-do list this spring!</p>
<p>One of the motivations behind the Mise En Place was to <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/09/the-endless-summer-wardrobe/">find an organizational system for myself</a>. It seemed like every time I got down to actually sewing something I&#8217;d be missing something important&#8211;thread or notions, or forgetting to fuse part of the fabric and then having to salvage wadded up fusing. And it would just take so long to finish. I just wanted to sit down at the machine and sew when it was time to sew! This time I had a real pleasure out of having eight different projects all prepared to go, cut out, bundled up with their requisite notions, fused, etc. No more running out for something at the last minute. I liked pretending I was a small factory sewer for a moment.</p>
<p>I also really like working on the same type of project for extended periods of time. So all said and done it was a good experiment, allowing me to give all that attention to individual stages of the process. (And I got much faster at tracing patterns and refining seam allowances as a result.) Thinking eight projects ahead was fun, but I don&#8217;t know if I could do that all the time&#8211;no room for whimsy or the latest pattern a blogger made and I just have to have!</p>
<p>Speaking of which, I&#8217;ve been having a hard time coming up with a summer wardrobe sewing plan. There are just so many good ideas swirling around my head and my original list was about 10 or so garments. I&#8217;d love to join one of the palette challenges and I&#8217;m wondering if three is a better number. Leaving room for whimsy. I love the Me Made concept, too&#8211;but I think my personal challenges in the months ahead relate to fitting more than wardrobing. (I&#8217;m dreaming of a custom dress form. Just dreaming, at the moment.)</p>
<p>Anyways, that was a long answer to Amy&#8217;s question but I&#8217;m trying hard to put periods on some of my ellipses!</p>
<p>Now that you&#8217;ve made it this far: the dress!</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/cotedazur-back-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="hp cote d&#039;azur dress back view" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3148" /></p>
<p><strong>Pattern</strong>: <a href="http://www.hotpatterns.com/products/HP-1121-Riviera-Cote-D%27-Azur-Knit-Dress%2C-Tunic-%26-Top.html">HP Cote D&#8217;azur Dress</a>. Last summer I really wanted to try a Hotpatterns pattern. (And that sounds funny funny.) I have a few that I bought in some mad fabric.com discount. I figured a knit dress was a good way to start.</p>
<p><strong>Fabric</strong>: This is a somewhat weightier rayon jersey (I think 14 oz?) and it was purchased for a draping project for a friend, as a birthing dress. I will have to share that story some day but it remains my second ever draping attempt and it was a blast. Anyway, I&#8217;d ordered far more than her dress needed just in case.</p>
<p><strong>Details</strong>: This is basically a t-shirt dress with seams down the center back and front. Super simple, the whole thing is serged. The special part about it is the bias shaping down the center front seam that forces it to drape as it does. (Sort of like a cut-on godet?) It also has hem facings, which I like, because it allows a for the nice, curvy hem shaping.</p>
<p>I wasn&#8217;t sure how I felt about a design with a gathered seam going down the bust, but I decided to give it a shot and just use up my fabric. It&#8217;s pretty cute, I think. I like the fact that it&#8217;s a maxi (or midi?) and that it&#8217;s purple. I&#8217;m not very good at binding knits yet, and I had to rip out this binding THREE times to get that V right, but I&#8217;ll get there.</p>
<p>One word about fit: I didn&#8217;t measure or alter this pattern before cutting (a risk, I know). And there were no reviews of it on PR at the time&#8211;but I learned afterward how much bustage is in this pattern. If I did this again I&#8217;d take out some little darts in along the neckline and gathers. (<a href="http://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/69525">This review is helpful in explaining that.</a>) Guaranteed, if you are a B or below, you will have to do some bust adjustment for this pattern. It&#8217;s not an ideal fit for me, as you can see:</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/cotedazur-front-closeup2-e1334857474240-650x659.jpg" alt="" title="hp cote d&#039;azur dress neckline" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3143" /></p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t bother me too much because the overall dress is nice, and looks even better when I don&#8217;t have a belt on&#8211;it weighs downward. There is a t-shirt version of this, which I doubt I&#8217;ll make but if I did there&#8217;s no way I could get away without taking it in in this area. Yes, this is going to be the summer I learn about small bust adjustments. No more balloons of fabric!</p>
<p>Summer + maxi(midi) dresses + my iris garden = happiness. (Sadly the irises have all bloomed and left by now!)</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/cotedazur-walking2-650x974.jpg" alt="" title="cotedazur-walking2" width="575" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3144" /></p>
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		<slash:comments>14</slash:comments>
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		<title>Sweet Shorts, Sour Shorts, Spicy Shorts</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/sweet-shorts-sour-shorts-spicy-shorts/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/sweet-shorts-sour-shorts-spicy-shorts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Apr 2012 03:43:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Inspiration Files]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pattern runway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shorts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3111</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Well, hello hello, and happy belated Easter! We do celebrate and this year&#8217;s holiday was pretty laid back, just spending the day talking with friends under a big oak tree and a little stroll through my garden to pick flowers. I got me an Easter bonnet, too! A fine big-brimmed straw hat that I wish [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, hello hello, and happy belated Easter! We do celebrate and this year&#8217;s holiday was pretty laid back, just spending the day talking with friends under a big oak tree and a little stroll through my garden to pick flowers. I got me an Easter bonnet, too! A fine big-brimmed straw hat that I wish I would&#8217;ve had when modeling my <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/10/lonsdale-in-mocha/" title="Lonsdale in Mocha">Lonsdale</a> last summer. It will work its way into one of my future blog shoots, I&#8217;m sure.</p>
<p>This week I&#8217;m dreaming of shorts. And tank tops. Alas, it&#8217;s that time again.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/life-mag-shorts-650x435.jpg" alt="" title="Short shorts, Life Magazine" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3115" /></p>
<p><em>{credit: <a href="http://images.google.com/search?q=female+short+pants&#038;q=source%3Alife&#038;biw=1280&#038;bih=641&#038;tbm=isch#q=female+short+pants+source:life&#038;hl=en&#038;tbm=isch&#038;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.r_qf.,cf.osb&#038;fp=1&#038;biw=1861&#038;bih=839">google images</a>}</em></p>
<p>I haven&#8217;t really worn sleeves in two weeks. This is why I never made a proper spring wardrobe plan, because heck, spring just flits in and out of Texas like a hummingbird. Now you see it, not you don&#8217;t.</p>
<p>My shorts fixation of the moment is being taunted by all the images of scalloped hems and lace shorts on Pinterest. (<a href="http://pinterest.com/textural/summer-sewing-ideas/">See my board</a>.)</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/chloe-scallop-shorts2.jpg" alt="" title="chloe-scallop-shorts2" width="600" height="833" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3116" /></p>
<p>And serendipitously, today Colette released a <a href="http://www.colettepatterns.com/shop/iris">cute little sailor short pattern</a> in their new spring collection. You bet I&#8217;ll be trying these!</p>
<p>Last summer I wrote a bit about <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/05/the-silk-tank-or-plastic-flip-flops/" title="The Silk Tank, or How to Stay Away from Plastic Flip-flops">the way my style has changed</a> living in Texas. I was never much of a skin-barer and I never had a need to be. I never really wore sandals, even in midwestern summers, and now they&#8217;re at least half of my shoe wardrobe. So slowly, over time, my tastes and my eye has adjusted to a breezier, skin-showing style.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve liked the way summer clothes have taught me to celebrate my  figure and make peace with those parts of the body I used to try and hide. I mean, I guess in a roundabout way I could blame Texas for actually giving me the courage to wear skinny jeans. (This year I even treated myself to SKINNY LEATHER pants. For reals.)</p>
<p>It took me awhile to be okay with shorts, for example, but now I can&#8217;t imagine living outside of them. A couple years ago, I timidly bought a pair of pretty little Ikat shorts on clearance at Anthropologie. And they became my uniform. I barely took them off for a couple summers straight. I need me lots more shorts.</p>
<p>In August, I sewed my first pair, <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/10/purple-silk-shorts-by-burda-process-by-me/" title="Purple Silk Shorts by Burda. Process by Me.">pretty purple silk shorts</a>, from a Burda pattern. They were so beautiful. I was so proud of the fly I drafted for them and how it all came out. And then I committed the ultimate sewing mishap&#8211;I&#8217;d completely sewn the wrong size (down). It could&#8217;ve been a costly mistake but thankfully the silk was left over from another project so I chalked it up to a fancy muslin. I&#8217;m determined to get them right this summer, and even ordered more of the same charmeuse.</p>
<p>The first pair on my agenda, however, are Pattern Runway&#8217;s <a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/71096808/scalloped-hem-shorts-pdf-pattern">Sweet Short</a>.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/pattern-runway-sweet-short-650x468.png" alt="" title="pattern-runway-sweet-short" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3125" /></p>
<p>After Oona first alerted me to this new line last summer, I promptly ran over to Etsy and ordered a few of their patterns. And now I really need them.</p>
<p>Thankfully, before I went a-cutting I found Liz&#8217;s pretty, <a href="http://agoodwardrobe.com/2011/11/04/4-a-different-short/">gauzy take</a> on these and her <a href="http://agoodwardrobe.com/2011/09/10/scallop-hem-shorts/">original assessment</a> of the fit, or I would&#8217;ve banged them out without measuring or even making a muslin. (Do I learn?) According to my measurements I&#8217;d fit exactly halfway between their X-Small and a Small. The thing is, there are rather big distances between the sizes, unlike many of my shorts or trouser patterns (like Burda). Rather than cutting out some willy-nilly in-between size, I decided to do some measuring first and drew in the seam lines along the X-Small to get an idea of the ease. The finished measurements of waist and the hip have 4.5&#8243; (11.4cm) of wearing ease! Just FYI. That&#8217;s quite a bit for fitted shorts, or at least a fitted waistband. Hopefully, the half size down will be good enough but I&#8217;m definitely making a muslin dammit. Tonight.</p>
<p>So stay tuned for further shorts developments. And a full-on summer wardrobe plan. I&#8217;ve got some drafting ideas up my sleeves!</p>
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		<slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>I Need a Brain File Cabinet</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/i-need-a-brain-file-cabinet/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/04/i-need-a-brain-file-cabinet/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Apr 2012 02:40:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellany]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mind-mapping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organization]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3086</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I so so want of these to put all my little treasures. Lost keys, weird European change (oh, I saved all the pre-Euro coins!), sewing supplies.* Lately, my brain has felt like it&#8217;s on inspiration speed. So many ideas coming at me, all at once. When I was younger, I&#8217;d just ride the wave, worried [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I so so want of these to put all my little treasures. Lost keys, weird European change (oh, I saved all the pre-Euro coins!), sewing supplies.*</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/card-catalog-650x866.jpg" alt="" title="card-catalog" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3090" /></p>
<p>Lately, my brain has felt like it&#8217;s on inspiration speed. So many ideas coming at me, all at once. When I was younger, I&#8217;d just ride the wave, worried that the muse wouldn&#8217;t strike twice. But since then, the tsumanis can be as much of a burden as the droughts. Every single idea being &#8220;a rare opportunity, the one that never knocks!&#8221; And I keep hearing that song in my head.</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve taken personality tests in the past just to get a grip on what tends to motivate me and how I organize (or don&#8217;t). On the popular MyersBriggs, I&#8217;m usually an <a href="http://www.personalitypage.com/INFP.html">INFP</a> which explains my passion for ideals, intensity of feeling, love of learning new things, and a lot of my past jobs and education (and my not infrequent changing of jobs and education). It also, unfortunately, tells me I have trouble organizing, setting goals and sticking to them. I do like finishing things, the sense of satisfaction that comes with it, but if something very interesting and important and new comes up, it&#8217;s hard to concentrate.</p>
<p>The one thing I&#8217;m always wishing for more of is organization. I&#8217;m just not the personality type who comes up with brilliant organizational strategies although I love to death the kind who do. (Y&#8217;all are a gift, and you know who you are!) At this point in my life I&#8217;ve made peace with my creative impulsiveness, but I&#8217;m always searching for a better way to sort through all the ideas that come at me. For awhile I was trying to keep a visual logbook, sort of like <a href="http://www.austinkleon.com/2010/01/31/logbook/">this one</a>.</p>
<p>I also get real pleasure out of following my mental rabbit trails until a few of them connect in some meaningful way. Lately I&#8217;ve taken to mind-mapping software.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/mindmap2-650x385.png" alt="" title="mind map" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3097" /></p>
<p>I have two highly organized business-owner friends who&#8217;ve suggested I try it out. I downloaded <a href="http://www.mindnode.com/">MindNode</a> because it has a Mac-friendly interface. (There are free ones, but they run on Java which I don&#8217;t like.) For example, I used it recently for a blog post idea. As I started writing, the post started turning into a tome (a frequent problem) and I needed to map out all the rabbit trails I was going on. Visually, my mind works more in circles than branches, but it&#8217;s been really helpful to use this so that I can 1. find the theme that ties all my ideas together, 2. happily follow the ideas to their extremes, 3. decide which branch is important&#8211;at this moment.</p>
<p>So for example, remember in my last post I was talking about re-doing my website? I had a theme all redesigned and almost ready to go and then some other ideas popped in my head. I tried them out and kept fiddling and fiddling. At no point during all this did I take notes on what I had done or why. Did I want a typographic-y theme that felt like an old book? and how old? Did I want a very clean look, kind of modernist and straightforward? I have a soft spot for designs with little clutter, with simple visual cues. Or did I want some feminine-y sort of retro vibe? I should&#8217;ve had my mind-mapping software when I started!</p>
<p>And as a sort of creative exercise this week, I did some serious spring cleaning of all my sewing stuff and my books and files in my home office. This was really good. I spent hours and hours going through papers and tossing. I fasted a bit from Pinterest and other distracting muses.</p>
<p>And I weeded, a lot. Weeding is good for the brain, too.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/bluebonnetsinhand-650x365.jpg" alt="" title="bluebonnets in hand" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3099" /></p>
<p>(See, Oona, I got dirty hands!)</p>
<p>Do you ever feel overwhelmed by your ideas and how do you organize them, just the ideas?</p>
<p>*As a kid, I loved flipping through these for hours and was endlessly fascinated with the Dewey decimal system and book titles. I remember sitting in a farm country library circa 1998, researching for my grad degree. I was the only one in there with a laptop; it was just at the the beginning of the dot-com boom. There were two lone card catalogs left and I felt a little pang of sadness; I knew the weight of that type of organization, the beauty of its craftsmanship, would be gone in a matter of days, months. (I remember thinking, time to get one now on ebay before they are like $1000. Um, too late.) These things are a beast though, the smallest weighing at least 150 pounds.</p>
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		<slash:comments>14</slash:comments>
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		<title>A Little Blush for Evening</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/a-little-blush-for-evening/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/a-little-blush-for-evening/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Mar 2012 04:39:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Lingerie & PJs]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3059</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In between travels and springing and birthdays and gardening, I was able to squeeze in a new lounge set. Doesn&#8217;t that sound better than pjs? And that&#8217;s exactly what I do in them&#8211;I lounge a lot more than I care to admit. (How about right now?) Adding more of these to my drawers is making [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In between travels and springing and birthdays and gardening, I was able to squeeze in a new lounge set.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/pjs-lounging-650x433.jpg" alt="" title="pjs-lounging" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3062" /></p>
<p>Doesn&#8217;t that sound better than pjs? And that&#8217;s exactly what I do in them&#8211;I lounge a lot more than I care to admit. (How about right now?) Adding more of these to my drawers is making me plain happy. Feeling comfy and pretty and having some variety in my <del>schlep</del>sleepwear = bonus.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/pjs-front-650x974.png" alt="" title="pjs-front" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3067" /></p>
<p>{And apologies for the grainy photos but this is what happens when one shoots in shade at an extreme ISO and then tries to expose afterward in software. Even though I could spend hours playing with all the filters and plugins for Aperture. So much cool stuff out there.}</p>
<p><strong>Pattern:</strong> The set is from Burda November 2009, #129 and #132.</p>
<p><strong>Details:</strong> I made the pajama trousers for my <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/12/lounge-set-in-brushstrokes/" title="Lounge Set in Brushstrokes">last set</a> and they&#8217;re super easy, a simple drawstring pant which I&#8217;ve now adjusted for a better fit. It&#8217;s embarrassing how easy these are. Seriously, like less than two hours to cut and sew at my snail pace.</p>
<p>At first I thought I&#8217;d make another version of my kimono-sleeved pajama top but this fabric doesn&#8217;t quite have the stretch for a hip band. So instead I went for the wrap Burda top from the same issue. It&#8217;s a pretty simple wrap top with a shawl collar, and piping is sandwiched in between the collar and facing. I almost left out the piping but in digging around my ribbon box I found enough of this coral charmeuse bias tape that I&#8217;d made for something else. You can see the facing doesn&#8217;t quite want to fold in neatly but these are pjs and this fabric is too slithery to want to stay anywhere in place.</p>
<p><strong>Fabric:</strong> Now I&#8217;m going to share a secret: polyester! This is a satin-type polyester knit from Gorgeous Fabrics, described as &#8220;70 denier microfiber jersey&#8221;. It looks like silk jersey, and feels a lot like it, but was much, much less expensive. And easy to wash and dry without wearing it down. (In my experience, washing silk jersey aggressively really messes with it.) The noticeable difference between silk and polyester is the static cling, which is the last thing that holds me back from drapey polyesters&#8211;and this fabric wants to cling. I&#8217;ve been trying to educate myself on types of fabrics for lingerie. Other than silk, obviously, there&#8217;s a lot of nylon and polyester, especially for bras, with terms like tricot, denier, microfiber coming up a lot. (You&#8217;d also see these in activewear.) With some of these fabrics, you have to let go of old stereotypes. There are polyesters that breathe and microfibers that feel very fine and soft to touch. And these will make some fine summer pjs&#8211;very, very cool on the skin.</p>
<p><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/pjs-closeup-650x433.png" alt="" title="pjs-closeup" width="600" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3072" /></p>
<p>It was nice to have an easy-peasy sort of &#8220;in between&#8221; project after all the work on <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/finally-a-fur-coat/" title="Finally, a Fur Coat!">my fur coat</a>. We all need those palette cleansers now and then, right? Now it feels like a matter of weeks before the Texas summer dawns on me, so I’m strategizing, strategizing, strategizing. The onslaught of spring has sent me into deep spring cleaning and organizing mode on every front. Throwing out, compiling yard sale items. It&#8217;s even trickled down to computer folder organization (what a mess&#8230;). And I decided it was time to refresh my blog with a different design. More palette cleansing! I&#8217;ve been working on it offline quite a bit and it feels much more like me, much more like how I want to be blogging into the next year. It&#8217;s not up yet, but sooon.</p>
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		<slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>it&#8217;s not easy being green</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/its-not-easy-being-green/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/its-not-easy-being-green/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Mar 2012 16:55:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Inspiration Files]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3036</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Do you ever feel like spring is just a bunch of exclamation marks?! !!!!!!!! Growing, growing, green. That unstoppable energy of spring is hard to keep up with. And March in particular is often the only &#8220;spring&#8221; we get in Austin&#8211;from here on out it rapidly turns to summer. So we get extra exclamation marks [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Do you ever feel like spring is just a bunch of exclamation marks?!</p>
<p>!!!!!!!!</p>
<p>Growing, growing, green. That unstoppable energy of spring is hard to keep up with. And March in particular is often the only &#8220;spring&#8221; we get in Austin&#8211;from here on out it rapidly turns to summer. So we get extra exclamation marks for that. I&#8217;m an avid gardener and it&#8217;s hard not to want to be outside digging in the dirt every chance I get. Here&#8217;s a bit of home for the &#8220;expat&#8221; Texans out there:</p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/bluebonnets.png"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/bluebonnets-650x433.png" alt="" title="bluebonnets" width="610" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3039" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/bluebonnets2.png"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/bluebonnets2-650x433.png" alt="" title="bluebonnets2" width="610" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3043" /></a></p>
<p>I have declared this the Year of the Bluebonnet. There are some years that they are smaller in crop than the others but between some perfectly timed rains in the fall and spring they are INSANE this year and I&#8217;m sure the Texas-dwellers out there have noticed the highways brimming with them. I dreamed for years of having a wildflower patch, something that simulated a meadow in a city garden kind of way. We have a pretty large yard for a city and even for central Austin&#8211;but it was entirely covered in shade and invasive plant-weeds. It took one fall of serious weeding, hacking down a few junk trees and bushes, and throwing out a few packets of seeds. Now my little patch of sunlight has taken on a life of its own. Some years the poppies show off, others the larkspur. Last year I had one lowly bluebonnet and all of this somehow came from THAT. (I never tire of the wonder that one plant can generate about 1000 more in just one season of seed-bearing.)</p>
<p>March is also a thick time because it&#8217;s also my man&#8217;s birthday month. Friends, birthdays are a really big, big deal around here. Sometimes wearily so. We usually take the day off (okay, sometimes more than one) and basically fill it with everything we love. It just so happens that Derek&#8217;s birthday is also St. Patrick&#8217;s Day. Yeah, he is part Irish and all heart so his bday always has this double-the-party energy. Add to all this SXSW, which seriously takes over Austin for about a week straight&#8211;the buzz, the traffic, the 10s of thousands of people crowding every square inch of this little town, the feeling that you are always missing some kind of huge convergent opportunity.</p>
<p>So we had a l&#8217;il party last night and now that things are calming down, from my quiet little porch in the universe, I can think about how much I adore this man and hope he had the bestest birthday:</p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/derek.jpg"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/derek.jpg" alt="" title="derek" width="610" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-3045" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/derek-vest.png"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/derek-vest-650x433.png" alt="" title="derek-vest" width="610" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3047" /></a></p>
<p><em>{In this one, he&#8217;s wearing a vest I made him a couple of years ago from a vintage 1940s pattern. I&#8217;m going to do another one soon.}</em></p>
<p>Derek wears green velvet pants to breakfast and top hats to conferences. He collects circus paraphernalia and weeps in front of a Marc Chagall. He has the biggest heart and zest for life of anyone I know&#8211;and often loves people so much it hurts him. Darn Irish. I know it&#8217;s not easy being green.</p>
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		<title>Liebster Love</title>
		<link>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/liebster-love/</link>
		<comments>http://clothhabit.com/2012/03/liebster-love/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Mar 2012 03:57:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Amy</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Miscellany]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://clothhabit.com/?p=3021</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Last week I had the honor of being nominated by three lovely bloggers for the Liebster Award. Thank you Amy (Sew Well), Lavender (Threadsquare) and Christine (Daughter Fish) for bestowing your blog love. Shucks, I feel a little sheepish. Some days I feel as if I&#8217;m blogging my own private Idaho, so thank you for [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Last week I had the honor of being nominated by three lovely bloggers for the Liebster Award. Thank you Amy (<a href="http://sewwell.wordpress.com/">Sew Well</a>), Lavender (<a href="http://threadsquare.wordpress.com">Threadsquare</a>) and Christine (<a href="http://daughterfish.com">Daughter Fish</a>) for bestowing your blog love. Shucks, I feel a little sheepish. Some days I feel as if I&#8217;m blogging my own private Idaho, so thank you for reminding me otherwise!</p>
<p>The Liebster is for blogs with followers of 200 or less and I admit I&#8217;ve never actually looked at my numbers so I went digging around in my Feedburner account. It didn&#8217;t help much with follower numbers, which seems to change from week to week (Feedburner averages how many times blog is viewed per day in readers) but I was totally geeking out looking at all the statistics. Apparently I have nothing on the geekdom that seems to land on this site. Namely Battlestar and Tricia Heifer fans. Over 90% of the hits on this site relate to my <a href="http://clothhabit.com/2011/04/the-number-6-dress/" title="The Number 6 Dress">Number 6 Dress</a>. I&#8217;m sure by linking that in here yet again I&#8217;m in danger of attracting even more of these hits, and if you are here because of that, Go Battlestar!</p>
<p>Although these days I&#8217;m more of a Fringe fan, and I&#8217;m praying they get one more season because this show is just warming up. Instead of Cylons, we get three versions of each character, who cross alternate universes to talk to themselves. Self, meet self. Fun. It&#8217;s not much to talk about in the clothes department but I do like The Observers&#8217; hat style.</p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Fringe_observers_are_coming-thumb-550x366-28525.jpg"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Fringe_observers_are_coming-thumb-550x366-28525-500x332.jpg" alt="" title="Fringe_observers_are_coming-thumb-550x366-28525" width="500" height="332" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3023" /></a></p>
<p>And now part of the game is to pass the award on to five more bloggers. I think I&#8217;ll make it six. I kinda like finding rarefied corners of the interwebs, don&#8217;t you?</p>
<p><a href="http://thethinks.com/">The Thinks</a>. Well, this might be cheating, but this is a blog by my dearest friend Han Stoney. She&#8217;s a lovely illustrator and rabid book reader and I appreciate her observations on art and life.</p>
<p><a href="http://blog.pattern-vault.com/">Pattern Vault</a>. Sarah does elegant research into fashion history and the media behind Vogue Designer patterns. I confess I was the first in line to buy a few from her collection of Alexander McQueen for Givenchy patterns.</p>
<p><a href="http://sewblooms.blogspot.com/">Blooms Fabric Obsession</a>. It always helps me to follow stylish Aussie sewists&#8230; they teach me how to be funky yet relaxed in a hot climate. And remind me that I need to be living near a beach.</p>
<p><a href="http://fool4fabric.blogspot.com/">Fool For Fabric</a>. I kinda stalk this blog. I want to be her when I grow up. And in 10 years if I&#8217;m not living near a beach, I should be living in Northern California. (Near a beach.)</p>
<p><a href="http://sallieoh.blogspot.com/">Sallieoh</a>. All around lovely blog on color and sewing and fashion and food. I think I felt better about my Rachel Comey shoe collection after discovering her!</p>
<p><a href="http://agoodwardrobe.com/">A Good Wardrobe</a>. Liz is designing, patternmaking and crafting her own wardrobe. And she lives in my favorite city in North America. (Near an ocean&#8230; am I sensing a theme here?)</p>
<p><a href="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/liebster_blog_logo.jpg"><img src="http://clothhabit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/liebster_blog_logo-250x50.jpg" alt="" title="liebster_blog_logo" width="250" height="50" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3027" /></a></p>
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